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The Para o Tane palace of the Makea Ariki in Rarotonga

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Cook Islands

The Cook Islands are 15 small islands in the South Pacific Ocean. Some are green and hilly, and some are rings of sand around blue lagoons. The whole sea around them is a giant marine park.

The Cook Islands are 15 small islands and atolls spread across about 2 million square kilometers of the South Pacific. They govern themselves in free association with New Zealand, and Cook Islanders are New Zealand citizens. The 2021 census counted 14,987 residents, more than 70% of them on Rarotonga.

The Cook Islands, 15 islands and atolls with a combined land area of about 237 km² scattered over some 2,000,000 km² of ocean, have been self-governing in free association with New Zealand since 1965. Polynesians were their only inhabitants until the 19th century. The 2021 census counted 14,987 usual residents (15,040 people in all, down from 17,434 in 2016), and in 2017 the whole national ocean became the Marae Moana marine park.

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Photo: Nurg, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Discover the Cook Islands

The Cook Islands are in the South Pacific Ocean.

There are 15 islands, far apart. The biggest town is Avarua, on Rarotonga. People speak Cook Islands Māori and English.

The Cook Islands are in the South Pacific Ocean, between French Polynesia and American Samoa. There are 15 islands and atolls, but they are spread so far apart that they cover about 2 million square kilometers of sea, an area nearly as large as Greenland.

The Cook Islands run their own affairs in free association with New Zealand. Cook Islanders hold New Zealand citizenship, and New Zealand helps with defense and disasters when asked. Cook Islands Māori and English are the official languages, the New Zealand dollar is used, and the government is based in Avarua, on Rarotonga.

Britannica describes the Cook Islands as a self-governing island state in free association with New Zealand: 15 small atolls and islands, about 236.7 km² of land in all, spread over about 2,000,000 km² of sea. New Zealand's Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Trade says the Cook Islands is part of the Realm of New Zealand, sharing its head of state; it conducts its own affairs and international relations, while New Zealand has a constitutional responsibility to respond to requests for help with foreign affairs, disasters and defense. Cook Islanders hold New Zealand citizenship.

A cabinet led by a prime minister answers to a one-house Parliament, and the House of Ariki, a council of hereditary high chiefs, advises on traditional matters. The 2021 census (census night November 30 to December 1) counted 15,040 people present, 14,987 of them residents.

The Para o Tane palace of the Makea Ariki in Rarotonga
Photo: Nurg, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Rarotonga, Aitutaki and the northern atolls

Rarotonga is the biggest island. It has tall green mountains.

The northern islands are atolls: rings of sand around a lagoon. Pukapuka is far to the north.

Rarotonga, the main island, is only about 6 kilometers wide but has steep mountains in the middle. Avarua, on its north coast, is where the government is based. The photo shows Para o Tane, the palace of a high chief, among palm trees, with a green peak behind.

The southern group includes Aitutaki, Atiu, Mangaia and Mauke, mixes of high islands and atolls. In the northern group, such as Manihiki, Penrhyn and Pukapuka, almost every island is an atoll: a low ring of sand on a reef around a lagoon.

Rarotonga, about 6 km wide, held 10,898 people in 2021, more than 70% of the total, with a density of 162 people per km². The southern group islands held 3,040 and the northern group 1,102. Pukapuka, in the north, was the most densely populated island (about 351 per km²), while Mangaia, the second-largest island, had about 9 per km².

Britannica lists Aitutaki, Atiu, Mangaia, Manuae, Mauke, Mitiaro, Palmerston and Takutea in the southern group, with combinations of atoll and high island, and Manihiki, Nassau, Penrhyn, Pukapuka, Rakahanga and Suwarrow in the north, all atolls except Nassau. The hero photo shows Para o Tane, the palace of the Makea Ariki, in Avarua.

The Para o Tane palace of the Makea Ariki in Rarotonga
Photo: Nurg, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Old volcanoes, coral rings and lagoons

Each island is the top of an old volcano.

On Rarotonga you can still see volcano peaks. Other islands are flat rings of coral sand. It is warm all year.

Every Cook Island sits on top of one or more old volcanoes. On the biggest islands, the volcanic peaks still stand tall: Te Manga, on Rarotonga, is the highest point at 652 meters. The atolls are low rings of coral sand on reefs around lagoons.

The islands are too small for rivers. On the atolls, rain soaks into the coral and floats as a thin layer of fresh water above the salt water, and people use wells and rain tanks. Trade winds keep temperatures mild, around 24 °C on Rarotonga. Tropical cyclones strike once or twice in ten years, between December and March.

Britannica explains that each island is the top of one or more extinct volcanoes; only on the largest do volcanic plugs and craters dominate, with Te Manga on Rarotonga rising to 652 m. Rarotonga is ringed by makatea, uplifted coral reef, with fertile volcanic soil between coast and mountains. There are no rivers; the high islands of Mangaia, Atiu and Mitiaro have small freshwater lakes, and on atolls rainwater forms a lens above heavier salt water, tapped by wells and tanks.

Mean annual temperatures range from about 24 °C on Rarotonga to about 28 °C on Penrhyn, and Rarotonga gets about 2,000 mm of rain a year. Tropical cyclones strike between December and March about once or twice a decade, and droughts hit the northern islands harder.

The Para o Tane palace of the Makea Ariki in Rarotonga
Photo: Nurg, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

A rare flycatcher and a giant marine park

A tiny bird called the kakerori lives only on Rarotonga.

People helped it when it was almost gone. The sea around the islands is a huge park for fish, coral and whales.

The kakerori, or Rarotonga flycatcher, is a tiny bird found only on Rarotonga. By the early 1990s there were only about 30 breeding pairs, but conservationists and landowners worked together and brought its numbers back up.

In 2017 the Cook Islands made its whole ocean, nearly 2 million square kilometers, into a marine park called Marae Moana. Its reefs have 136 known kinds of coral and about 650 kinds of fish, and 22 kinds of whales and dolphins have been seen offshore.

Britannica notes that the first Polynesian settlers brought pigs, dogs, chickens and a small rat, still the main land animals, and that some native birds became extinct in the 19th century after Europeans introduced cats. The kakerori (Rarotonga flycatcher), unique to Rarotonga, fell to about 30 breeding pairs by the early 1990s; by the early 21st century a small group of conservationists and landowners had restored it to a viable population.

Marae Moana, which came into being on July 11, 2017, covers a total ocean area of nearly 2 million km²; its official site calls it the world's largest multi-use marine park. It records 136 identified coral species and some 650 reef fish species, and 22 cetacean species observed in the open ocean.

The Para o Tane palace of the Makea Ariki in Rarotonga
Photo: Nurg, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Cook Islands Māori, churches and island life

Most people are Cook Islands Māori.

They speak Cook Islands Māori and English. Families grow foods like taro, and people fish. Many Cook Islanders live in New Zealand.

In the 2021 census, 77% of the people counted were Cook Islands Māori, Polynesian people whose ancestors sailed here long ago. Cook Islands Māori and English are the official languages.

Most people are Christian; the Cook Islands Christian Church is the largest. Taro, yams, bananas, breadfruit and sweet potatoes grow on the fertile southern islands, and the Cook Islands counts tourism among the keys to its economy. Many Cook Islanders live in New Zealand, especially since the airport on Rarotonga opened in 1974.

The 2021 census recorded 77% of the people counted (11,603) as Cook Islands Māori, down from 81% in 2011. Christianity predominates: the Cook Islands Christian Church had 43.1% of residents (down from 48.8% in 2016), followed by the Roman Catholic Church (16.7%) and Seventh-day Adventists (8.3%).

The population peaked at 21,322 in 1971 and fell sharply after Rarotonga's international airport opened in 1974, as many people moved to New Zealand; the 2021 count was 2,394 lower than in 2016. New Zealand's foreign ministry says the Cook Islands graduated to high-income status in 2019 and names tourism among the things the Cook Islands sees as key to its economic revival.

The Para o Tane palace of the Makea Ariki in Rarotonga
Photo: Nurg, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Voyagers, missionaries and free association

Long ago, Polynesian sailors found these islands.

Much later, Captain James Cook visited. In 1965 the Cook Islands began to govern themselves.

Polynesians, mainly from the islands now called French Polynesia, were the only people here until the 1800s, and each island ran its own affairs. Captain James Cook visited most of the southern islands in the 1770s.

Missionaries arrived in 1821. Fearing a French takeover, some chiefs asked Britain for protection, and in 1888 the islands came under one government for the first time. New Zealand annexed them in 1901. In 1965 the Cook Islands became self-governing in free association with New Zealand.

Britannica says Polynesians, mainly from today's French Polynesia, were the only inhabitants until the 19th century, each island largely autonomous. Spanish explorers visited northern islands in the late 1500s and early 1600s without staying; James Cook called at most southern islands in 1773, 1774 and 1777. London Missionary Society missionaries, English and Tahitian, arrived from 1821 and shaped island governments.

Fear of a French takeover, as in Tahiti, led some chiefs to petition for a British protectorate (1888), bringing the islands under one federal parliament for the first time. At New Zealand's urging, chiefs of the largest islands petitioned for annexation, carried out in 1901. A Legislative Council followed in 1946, a Legislative Assembly in 1957, and self-government in free association in 1965. The Cook Islands then made treaties as an independent political entity and helped found the South Pacific Forum in 1971.

The Para o Tane palace of the Makea Ariki in Rarotonga
Photo: Nurg, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Through the years

The Cook Islands on the map

Find the Pacific Ocean on the globe.

Look south of the equator, east of Samoa and Tonga. Tiny dots spread over the sea. Those are the Cook Islands.

The Cook Islands lie in the South Pacific between French Polynesia and American Samoa. The southern group, with Rarotonga, is just inside the tropics, and the northern group is much closer to the equator.

The islands have no land borders. They are too small for the globe to draw, so PlayOwl marks them with dots.

The islands span from Penrhyn at about 9° S in the north to Mangaia near 22° S, all within the tropics (the southernmost barely so). They are spread over about 2,000,000 km² of ocean, and New Zealand's foreign ministry places them between French Polynesia and American Samoa.

There are no land borders. At the globe's scale there is no outline, so the map uses markers: Avarua on Rarotonga, Aitutaki, Mangaia, Pukapuka and Penrhyn.

Islands and atolls
15
Ocean they spread over
about 2,000,000 km²
Residents (2021 census)
14,987
Te Manga
652 m

Amazing facts

  • The Cook Islands' sea park is one of the biggest in the world.

    In 2017 the Cook Islands turned its whole ocean, nearly 2 million square kilometers, into the Marae Moana marine park.

    Marae Moana, established July 11, 2017, spans nearly 2 million km²; its official site calls it the largest multi-use marine park in the world.

  • On atolls, fresh rainwater floats on top of salty seawater underground.

    On the atolls, rain soaks into the coral and floats as a layer of fresh water above the salt water, so people dig wells to reach it.

    Atoll rainfall percolates into the coral and is stored as a lens-shaped freshwater layer above the heavier salt water, reached by wells.

  • The tiny kakerori bird lives only on Rarotonga.

    The kakerori was down to about 30 breeding pairs in the early 1990s before people helped it recover.

    The Rarotonga flycatcher (kakerori) recovered from about 30 breeding pairs in the early 1990s to a viable population through work by conservationists and landowners.

  • More Cook Islanders lived there in 1971 than today.

    The population was largest in 1971, with 21,322 people, then fell after the airport opened in 1974 and many people moved to New Zealand.

    The census population peaked at 21,322 in 1971; the 1974 opening of Rarotonga's international airport was followed by heavy migration to New Zealand.

Words to know

atoll
a ring-shaped coral island or chain of islets around a lagoon
free association
an arrangement where a place governs itself but keeps a special link with another country
lagoon
a calm stretch of water separated from the open sea by a reef or sandbank
marine park
an area of ocean protected and managed to look after sea life
ariki
a high chief in the Cook Islands
cyclone
a powerful tropical storm with very strong winds

Discovery challenge

  1. What is an atoll?

    Most northern Cook Islands are atolls. What is an atoll?

    Which description fits the atolls of the northern Cook Islands?

    • A tall snowy mountain
    • A ring of coral and sand around a lagoon
    • A big river delta
    Show the answer

    A ring of coral and sand around a lagoon

    A ring of coral and sand around calm water.

    A low ring of coral and sand on a reef around a lagoon.

    Narrow, low sandbanks resting on circular reefs around lagoons.

  2. Which country are the Cook Islands linked to?

    The Cook Islands are in free association with which country?

    Since 1965 the Cook Islands have been self-governing in free association with which country?

    • Australia
    • France
    • New Zealand
    Show the answer

    New Zealand

    New Zealand.

    New Zealand. Cook Islanders hold New Zealand citizenship.

    New Zealand, which annexed the islands in 1901.

  3. Which island has the most people?

    On which island did more than 70% of residents live in 2021?

    Which island, home to Avarua, held 10,898 people in the 2021 census?

    • Rarotonga
    • Pukapuka
    • Penrhyn
    Show the answer

    Rarotonga

    Rarotonga, the biggest island.

    Rarotonga, where Avarua is.

    Rarotonga, at 162 people per km².

  4. What is Marae Moana?

    What did the Cook Islands create in 2017 called Marae Moana?

    What is Marae Moana, established in July 2017?

    • A new airport
    • A volcano
    • A huge marine park
    Show the answer

    A huge marine park

    A huge park in the sea.

    A marine park covering nearly 2 million square kilometers of ocean.

    A multi-use marine park covering the national ocean, nearly 2 million km².

Explore next

For parents & teachers

What children will learn

  • Locate the Cook Islands in the South Pacific and explain how few people live across so much ocean.
  • Compare high volcanic islands with low coral atolls.
  • Explain in plain words what free association with New Zealand means.
  • Describe how people helped the kakerori and protect the ocean through Marae Moana.

Recommended ages: 3 to 17 · About 15 minutes

Talk about it

  • Why might many people move away from small islands when an airport opens? What might they miss about home?
  • How would life be different if your fresh water came only from rain and wells?
  • Why might a country with very little land care so much about protecting its ocean?

Try at home or in class

  • Fill a clear cup with damp sand, then gently pour a little colored fresh water on top and watch it sit above salty water poured in first, like an atoll's freshwater lens.
  • On a map, mark Rarotonga and Penrhyn and measure the distance between them to see how spread out the islands are.

Key vocabulary: atoll, free association, lagoon, marine park, ariki, cyclone

Where these facts come from

  1. Wikidata , Wikimedia Foundation (CC0 1.0)
  2. Natural Earth vector data , Natural Earth (NACIS) (Public domain)
  3. Cook Islands (land, climate, plants and animals, people, government, economy) , Encyclopaedia Britannica
  4. Cook Islands: History , Encyclopaedia Britannica
  5. 2021 Census of Population and Dwellings (report with tables) , Cook Islands Statistics Office
  6. Cook Islands , New Zealand Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Trade
  7. Marae Moana , Marae Moana (Government of the Cook Islands)
  8. Cook Islands: Government and society , Encyclopaedia Britannica
  9. PlayOwl region table, version 1 , PlayOwl (PlayOwl original data)
  10. flag-icons 7.5.0 , Panayiotis Lipiridis and contributors (MIT)
  11. Wikimedia Commons , Wikimedia Foundation (Per file (public domain, CC0, CC BY or CC BY-SA); see each media record)

Checked, not yet human-reviewed. Last updated November 1, 2026. Spotted a mistake? Tell us.

Picture credits
  • Photo: Nurg, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons · source · license